One problem which every auto enthusiast has to handle is rust control. Unless you have done a complete frame-off restoration or can afford to part with some major dollars on a concours-quality machine, virtually every vehicle is going to have some rust on it somewhere. Even if rust is not visible on the outside, some is likely to be hidden away inside fenders and rocker panels, even inside the frame rails. In part, this is because it was just too expensive and impractical for auto manufacturers to treat every surface on every vehicle. American cars built in the late 1950s are particularly prone to rusting. The combination of complex sheet metal work, with lots of hidden nooks and crannies, as well as cutbacks in the quality of the steel that was used because of the recession at the time, led to the construction of some vehicles which were notorious "rusters" even when new. To their credit, many manufacturers took steps to slow rusting by such methods as using galvanized steel in rust-prone areas and better application of undercoatings at the factory in areas not readily accessible after the car was assembled. However, these vehicles are now over thirty years old, and many of the rust control systems have failed. So the problem remains: how does the restorer control rust?

Very basically, here are three different ways to handle rust: removal and replacement of the affected metal, conversion of existing rust, or slowing the spread of rust on areas where the first two methods are impractical.

Ideally, replacing rusted metal with fresh metal is the best way to have a rust-free vehicle, but very few of us can afford the cost of new panels. Besides that many brand-new panels simply are not available anywhere at any price. The remaining alternatives, conversion and slowing its spread are more practical, and we'll give you pointers on the best ways to use each of them.

Rust conversion involves stopping the rusting process by chemically acting on the rusted metal and changing it into a more stable compound. The chief advantage to this method is that rust does not have to be completely removed for the converter to work. This makes rust conversion the ideal solution for large pieces like the chassis, or difficult-to-access areas, like inside rear quarter panels. Corroless, available from The Eastwood Company, is an ideal product for this application. The only surface preparation that's required is to brush off large rust flakes and get the surface free from grease and oil. It's even all right to use a water soluble degreaser to clean the surface before applying. Just be sure that you use plenty of water to rinse the degreaser away and that you let the piece you're working on dry thoroughly before treatment. Corroless can then be either brushed on in areas where final finish is not important, or sprayed on for a smoother finish in areas which will show on the completed vehicle. Since Corroless is compatible with virtually all types of paint systems, final painting can be done in a conventional manner. Corroless reacts with rust to form the more stable compound, Magnetite, which does not rust. Corroless also contains special moisture-displacing ingredients which act to remove any residual surface moisture. This is where other products of this type can fail. Although they may do a successful job at rust conversion, there is still a small amount of moisture left on the surface which can cause rust, despite the previous treatment. It is entirely possible to have this rust form bubbles on the surface of your refinished vehicle in as short a time as a few months! Corroless goes further than this though: it contains microscopic glass particles, which interleave during the curing process. This interleaving forms a barrier which is virtually impermeable to moisture so that further rusting will not occur. Corroless is available in convenient aerosol cans, which have a very high solids content and yield much more coverage than other aerosols with the same weight. For larger jobs, quarts and pints (are also available. These two can be applied by brush straight out of the can or they can be thinned up to 15% with lacquer thinner, if you plan to use a spray gun to apply them.

There are certain situations in which neither metal replacement nor rust conversion are practical solutions. Two examples are treating the inside of rocker panels and frame rails. These are both areas which are prone to rusting, but which are fairly inaccessible. In many cases, these areas only require the use of a rust retardant-type product which is both easy to apply and which will slow the spread of existing rust. Eastwood carries a product called "Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust" which works very well. It is a spray-on film which makes it possible to treat difficult-to-access areas. The resulting coating seals the surface from exposure to air and moisture and thus slows the formation of new rust and the creep of existing rust. Anti-Rust is perfect for areas which will not be exposed to direct weather, such as those mentioned above, though the coating is self-healing if it should get scratched. Eastwood's Anti-Rust acts as a great rust preventative product when applied to new metal, too. Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust is available on two formulas: an aerosol (net wt. 11.75 oz.), and one quart can.

If you have been fortunate enough to be able to install new replacement panels, you still have the concern of keeping them from rusting. Eastwood's Cold Galvanizing Compound can help ease this concern. This product contains 90 percent pure zinc and chemically fuses to bare steel and forms a very rust-resistant barrier. Cold Galvanizing Compound is perfect for application inside new rocker panels and inside rear quarter panels - just about anywhere rust prevention of new metal is important, but where the part treated will not be painted. (Cold Galvanizing Compound should not be painted over.) In addition, This product acts as a great weld-through coating, too. Apply it to sheet metal pieces which will be used in inner quarter panel repair, then weld as usual. The coating will not affect the quality of the weld, and will retain is rust-preventative properties.

To restore factory-style protection inside wheel wells and on the undercarriage, Eastwood's Rubberized Undercoating can help. It adheres well to both bare metal and painted surfaces and forms a tough, resilient barrier against stone chips and road salt and spray. For small touch-ups and repairs, use the aerosol (net wt. 18.3 oz.) or for larger jobs, our one quart size cover lots of area.

If you are applying Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust, Rubberized Undercoating, or Cold Galvanizing Compound to large areas, Eastwood's Undercoating System is an essential tool for the job. The Undercoating System is used with your air compressor and includes enough pieces to access virtually every area on just about every vehicle. Included are a 30" flexible wand, 20" rigid wand, 5" close-quarters wand, one quart plastic bottle, pressure head and gun assembly, 45 degree reverse spray tip, 90 degree directional spray tip, and a blast tip.

If you have any questions, email eastwood@chesco.com and type "tech help" in the subject field.